Italian fashion king Armani rounds up Milan menswear week

Giorgio Armani unveiled a largely military-inspired collection which he said created “a strong, precise image… and a pure and essential style which creates a virile silhouette, defined by ample jackets and coats paired with closely-fitting trousers.”

Impeccably-tailored grey suits were spiced up with pink-and-black striped ties and handkerchiefs peeking out of top pockets. Slim black velvet jackets were edged in blue silk and worn with a silver tie, while luxurious fur-lined grey overcoats were worn with blue suit trousers and large hand-held snakeskin bags.

For the less formal occasions, grey suit jackets were paired with red or green velvet trousers. Fabrics range from neoprene to suede, leather, cashmere and mohair, with playful combinations of contrasting textiles and geometric patterns.

Over at Dsquared2, black was the reigning colour at a show by the Canadian twins Dean and Dan Caten worthy of Broadway. Models swung down the catwalk to 1940s jazz and swing tunes rapped out by dashing musicians in black tie.

The collection’s trousers were worn short, to mid-calf — a trend of the season. Jeans — the fashion house’s speciality — were worn with three-quarter length camel or bottle-green coats, and hats made a big appearance, in reds, greens and pinks.

But it was the show’s finale that drew gasps from fashionistas in the audience: models in skin-tight white tops and boxers sauntered down the runway before stripping off and throwing their tops into the crowd, muscles rippling in the spotlights.