Haute couture shows: highlights from days 1 and 2

Atelier Versace

Donatella Versace outfitted her models like contemporary goddesses, bringing out the best in their silhouettes through the art of draping. Fabrics were close and tight for a sophisticated look, or loose and fluid for a more sensual result. We also observed an abundance of hooded dresses, a nod to style icon Grace Jones. More feminine and modern than traditional goddesses, the Versace women in this haute couture collection wore plunging V-neck gowns with dramatic slit skirts.

Schiaparelli

In one of the most eagerly awaited shows of the season, ex-Rochas designer Marco Zanini presented his first Schiaparelli collection, which was offbeat and quirky, true to the brand’s traditions. Perhaps the best example was the eccentric pointed hats, a form of homage to Elsa Schiaparelli. All in all, the star-studded audience at the show saw around 20 pieces, including draped gowns, looks with star motifs and plenty of embroidery.

On Aura Tout Vu

Designers Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov put on a remarkably original show to exhibit their latest haute couture collection. Playing upon black and white contrasts, the collection included looks that sculpted models’ silhouettes perfectly or, on the contrary, that flowed loosely, with transparent elements and plunging V-necks. Mini dresses, maxi dresses and jumpsuits with geometric elements were embroidered with rhinestones, crystal, and even … light. The highlight of the show was the moment when the models literally lit up in the midst of almost complete blackness.