PFW: sporty touches and dark crystals at Damir Doma

Design-wise, Damir Doma is continuing to step out of the shadows and is looking increasingly confident dressing a woman who doesn’t mind the limelight. The opening look, white pajama shirting and a leather braided twist on jean shorts, was positively Riviera-esque for Doma (he first rose to fame with his own brand of dark Rick Owens-inflected monasticism). 

Those leather and fabric cords were woven through eyelets as jacket closures and as dress straps, with plenty of pieces also featuring wavy prints and fabric patterns. This season’s trend for semi-sheer shirts was ticked off, and there was a sporty touch from black and white striped elasticated waists and collars, and then later bright orange mesh that was inserted as side panels into dresses, and worn as a top.  

The suede jackets and skirts that came in a soft caramel were another highlight. Some added evening glamour appeared via the Swarovski crystals that were at the designer’s disposal (Doma is one of this year’s 15-strong Swarovski Collective). Doma doesn’t like glitz, and the dark gemstones were fittingly applied in asymmetric blocks on the arms and torsos of jackets and dresses.

Footwear included python and suede creepers (a perennial favorite here) and wedge sandals.