2015 fashion: three trends for menswear
Ton-sur-ton
All white, all beige, neutrals Spring/Summer 2015 is going to be all about refined use of color palettes. In London Burberry sent out lots of bright colors, but grouped them together, while at Calvin Klein Italo Zuchelli created lots of buzz with his hunky models in ‘nude’ beige tones. Tomas Maier took a similar approach with his neutral colors at Bottega Veneta. Some brands took it further and opted for all white looks; from toothpaste-white bonded leather jackets at Neil Barrett to off-white tailoring paired with ice-white sportswear at Sergio Corneliani.
Checks and stripes
The way patterns did appear on the runway (and how you’ll be seeing them in stores over the coming months), they arrived in pretty classic formulations: windowpane checks, monochrome plaids and pinstripes. Frida Giannini at Gucci described her naval striped lads as ‘decadent admirals’ and her fellow Italian Giorgio Armani dressed his deckhands in sun lounger striped red casual jackets. Milanese upstarts MSGM also mixed checked patterns with sportswear. When it came to pinstripes, as usual, it was London that was most on point. Matthew Miller revisited the city’s Savile Row heritage with his deconstructed tailoring and Jonathan Anderson riffed on a tongue-in-cheek version business casual by creating apron shapes from the classic gentleman’s staple.
A touch of dandyism
With all the minimalism, tailoring and sporty elements going on, you might be forgiven for thinking that menswear is getting a bit boring! Worry not. The rock ‘n’ roll touches aren’t this season’s biggest trend, but there are splashes of fun to be had. Paul Smith, Dries Van Noten, and Valentino all created stunning silk prints pants and shirts (often paired with more restrained tailoring) for Spring 2015. Van Noten’s use of color was restrained (he stuck to pale gold, red, burgundy and navy) but his use of Richard Haines’s illustrated dancers was more than eye-catching enough.
