London menswear: highlights from the weekend
Dunhill
John Ray’s debut runway show at Dunhill was a delight, packed with an electric sense of English eccentricity, from ties tucked into shirts, short collars popping out lopsidedly over jumpers, and casual trousers worn with loose turn-ups. There was plenty of corduroy and shearling, while silk pajamas were worn with wool overcoats, all the looks presented with burnished leather slippers worn with textured socks. The tailoring provided the traditional flip-side to the Dunhill Englishman’s off-the-clock casual.
Alexander McQueen
‘Valour’, ‘Truth’ and ‘Honour’ were emblazoned on the pieces at Sarah Burton’s menswear show on Sunday, which was inspired, in part, by the UK’s entry in the First World War over a century ago, and London’s tribute to the dead. Models wore creepers with metallic studs and floral brocade suiting, with the military influences arriving in the tailored-yet-sporty outerwear, which was joined by a series of regency coats that were nipped in at the waist.
Moschino
Always a man of extremes, Jeremy Scott went to the mountains for Fall/Winter 2015 for a snowy rave theme, replete with hunky models dressed up with Davy Crockett fox tails. The American designer played with patchwork and a trompe l’oeil denim effect, as well as animal prints, slogan t-shirts, hi-vis technical fabrics, floral prints, tartan, metallic snakeskin and silver sequins. The furs, from chunky fur boots to smothering coats and wraps, were an added delight.
