Milan Men's Fashion Week: Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Missoni

Jil Sander 

Rodolfo Paglialunga’s first men’s runway show for the Milan-based brand saw the designer interpret the founders’ statement form-meets-function twist on minimalism with a playful tone. He served up minimalist workwear and safari jacket-inspired coats, sturdy zip-up boots and wide lapels (some in fur and shearling). There was an emphasis on generous volumes including oversized knits and pleated, high-belted trousers, as well as sports and formalwear hybrids, from double-faced cashmere or leather anoraks. Moddish three-button suiting came in a Prince of Wales check, part or a wider emphasis on restrained and classic colors, which were brightened up with flashes of red and mustard.  

Bottega Veneta 

Tomas Maier talked about the non-conformist ideas he was attempting to channel with his Fall/Winter 2015 collection. It started with the bright purple color which brightened up the show from the second look onwards but continued with his wide-lapel, checked suiting. There were also double-breasted tweed and corduroy blazers with a casual slant, slouchy velvet, denim and jersey pants, luxurious deer, lamb and calfskin finishes and plenty of abstract intarsia knits. 

Missoni 

This season the brand’s trademark knits were paired with checked wool suiting and standout suede bombers, with designer Angela Missoni inspired by the Russian, Mongolian and Chinese landscapes of the Trans-Siberian-Manchurian rail line. There were tons of tartan and plaid, worn with double-breasted overcoats in a colorful loom-knit that riffed on an ikat pattern. The models’ chunky rubber-soled sports boots came courtesy of a collaboration between Converse and Missoni and incorporated an elasticated cashmere sock. Other key touches included slouchy v-neck tops and t-shirt/shawl hybrids.