Milan Men's Fashion Week: Giorgio Armani

From the first look featuring a three-button suit in toweling worn with fur accessories, this collection was a statement of intent. This is what the 80-year-old designer wants his modern man to look like. 

For Fall/Winter 2015 it was all about the soft and hard edges of manhood, à la Hemingway, with Armani’s contemporary aesthetes in short-cut jackets paired with high-waisted 1930s inspired pants. 

Apart from a final flurry of tailoring, the show mixed off and on-duty looks, from Nordic knits in vicuna, herringbone tweed, and checks both windowpane and plaid, to zip-up shirting and shearling jackets. The ‘Milanese’ color palette of shades of gray evolved into blacks, browns and blues, with the odd hint of bordeaux and olive green. 

Despite all the emphasis on the classically masculine and functional, the crocodile blouson and the copious number of fur pieces were a statement of intent for the collection’s luxury credentials. They were joined by a military touch from the double-breasted casual jackets and the overcoats with plenty of outer pockets.  

More exuberant pieces included the patchwork sweaters, including some with fleece panels and shawl collar jackets, with models carrying fur-sided holdalls, and wearing sensible boots and double monk strap derbies.