PFW: Indian embroidery at Barbara Bui

The collection unveiled by Barbara Bui Thursday reflects two sides of the same coin. « I like the luxuriant aspect of India but also the spiritual facet of this Ancient culture, » the designer recently explained.

On one hand are a series of monochromatic looks — in white for the most part, but also all in orange and black, often with touches of metallic silver and gold. On the other are pieces covered in multicolored Indian mirror embroidery, offsetting the apparent simplicity of the rest of the line. 

Because the simplicity is indeed only apparent. Though the color scheme may be basic, the tailoring is much more complex. Elaborate drapery in dresses and skirts contrasts with the structured cuts of Mandarin collar jackets and fitted blazers with open sides. Oversize blazers and T-shirts also make a strong showing, pointing to streetwear as another key influence underpinning the collection. 

But the mosaic-like embroidery in coats, jackets, pants and bustier tops remains the centerpiece of the line. On the runway, these pieces were paired with simple white garments to stunning effect, showing how they can liven up any outfit.