Paris menswear: highlights from Ami, Thom Browne, Paul Smith, Saint Laurent

AMI

Held at the prestigious Paris high school, the Lycée Carnot, Alexandre Mattiussi’s show started with a schoolbell, which prompted an exodus of whooping kids who escaped class and took their seats alongside the runway. Models then arrived, strutting their stuff in windowpane and Prince of Wales checks, stripes (monochrome and green and navy) and plaid, as well as a lovestruck heart and arrow motif.

Thom Browne 

The American designer dressed his models in slightly sinister clear plastic orthotic masks, wearing moulded and structured tailored pieces designed to look like muscles and armor. The classic Browne red, blue and black palette was there in force, alongside soft pastels, rich ochre and orange, and fabric touches included a wonderful butterfly seersucker (the winged creatures cropped up throughout). 

Paul Smith

Sir Paul was inspired by musicians and artists, serving up slouchy rock ‘n’ roll silk pants, light summer intarsia knits, a psychedelic coral twist on paisley, chevrons, tartan, ganja leaf and banana skin prints. There were also some top jackets and outerwear options including chic bombers and blazers with satin lapels.  

Saint Laurent 

Hedi Slimane did it again with his retro desert freakout for Spring-Summer 2015. The Saint Laurent creative director sent his models racing down the runway (with slouch-framed struts that make you want to book your next pilates class) dressed in super-skinny jeans, fringed leather jackets, ponchos, GI camo, and retro military touches.