Paris Fashion Week: highlights from the later shows on day 2

Alexis Mabille 

Mabille showed plenty of Swarowski crystal-embellished pieces which took their cues both from sportswear and classic tailoring. He also used yards of lace-embroidered sheer silk (inserted into pieces as fluid panels and worn on its own as transparent pants). Plaid wraps and double-breasted coats and jackets also featured. 

Rochas 

Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s debut also went full-on with the gemstones, which appeared all over shoes and clothes. Colored leather gloves also featured sparkling crystalline growths which cropped up too on the skirt seams. The collection also went heavy on the metallics, while outerwear options included oversized coats in fur and wool.

Gareth Pugh 

Pugh’s models had an alien aspect with white powder around the eyes and on their fingers, and hair tied up in space-age nets. There was also a retro-sci-fi vibe emanating from the Jodorowsky-esque hats and twisted one-piece trouser-boots. Colors were restrained with plenty of white and cream looks, all-over metallics, and transparent PVC overlays. The animal pelt outerwear was where Pugh hit his stride: « It’s shearling, but not as we know it ». 

Vionnet 

The collection focused on Valenki felted wool which was patchworked with Matisse-like cut out flower shapes and tulip illustrations. There were also lots of soft knit dresses, sweaters and pants, and the wool effect was carried to outerwear with a cable-knit effect appearing on what looked like leather bomber jackets. Goga Ashkenazi’s team also added fur, pleats and pinstripes to the mix.