The New Gucci by Sabato De Sarno
Celebrating Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Debut: Meeting the Great Expectations
In May, Sabato De Sarno took on the role of creative director at @Gucci, succeeding Alessandro Michele. Recently, he presented his debut collection for the prestigious Italian luxury brand. The question on everyone’s mind: Did it meet the lofty expectations?
De Sarno’s impressive background, with experiences at Prada and Valentino, naturally led to anticipation of their influence on his work. Hints of Miuccia Prada’s trademark eccentricity and the minimal elegance of Valentino’s exceptional tailoring were discernible. Additionally, for those who still pined for the retro-inspired opulence of Michele’s Gucci, there were subtle nods in that direction.
While the collection exuded refinement and undeniable luxury, it was somewhat challenging to pinpoint a singular, groundbreaking concept that would usher in a new era, akin to the impact of Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele. De Sarno’s entry into Gucci came at a different time. Prior to the Ford and Michele eras, the brand faced declining sales and prestige, which paradoxically allowed for more creative experimentation and a willingness to take risks.
Similar to Ford and Michele, whose visionary approaches left an indelible mark on the fashion industry and revolutionized people’s perceptions of fashion, De Sarno now faces the daunting expectation of sustaining such rapid growth. This expectation was reflected in the collection’s cautious and commercially-focused approach.
One could sense the influence of merchandising teams, with Jackie bags prominently featured in nearly every look, logos and monograms incorporated, albeit in a more understated « quiet luxury » manner, and an abundance of items reminiscent of previous collections. However, this aligns with the current state of the fashion industry, where various factors influence fashion trends beyond just provocative concepts and compelling narratives.
Late last year, when Gucci and Michele announced their separation, it was widely believed to be linked to the challenge of delivering a significant aesthetic shift. The question now lingers: Has De Sarno succeeded in meeting the expectations set by his predecessors?
