Floral silks at Marchesa, diamonds at Julian Macdonald
The luxury label Marchesa normally shows in New York but returned to its British roots for a one-off show to mark its tenth anniversary with a spring/summer collection inspired by « modern-gypsy Woodstock spirit ».
US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, US film producer Harvey Weinstein and British singer Paloma Faith were in the front row as models floated past in a string of knock-out dresses in black, gold, white and fuchsia.
Multi-coloured embroidered flowers trickled across silk tiered ruffles and billowing sleeves, while black silk frocks and dresses were hand-painted with yellow birds.
« It’s a more languid feel but with the detailing, the beadings we always do. We wanted to have an ease to the collection, » said Georgina Chapman, one half of the team behind Marchesa and Weinstein’s wife.
Speaking to AFP backstage at Banqueting House, the royal palace where the show took place beneath a 17th-century Rubens ceiling, Chapman and her partner Keren Craig, both British, said it was « very exciting » to be back.
« We’re back home. It’s ten years since the inception of Marchesa which we dreamed up here, so it seemed like an appropriate occasion, » Chapman said.
Earlier, London Fashion Week regular Julien Macdonald wowed the crowd with a wedding dress embroidered with diamonds and pearls that he said was worth more than £4 million ($6.5 million, 1.3 million euros).
It was the finale of a collection of slim-fitting dresses with bold patterns incorporating flower and tattoo shapes, showcased in the conservatory of the Royal Opera House.
« My bride is a mermaid that swims in the sea, covered in treasure, » Macdonald said, explaining the inspiration for the wedding gown.
« She takes the buried treasure and translates it into her dream ethereal wedding dress — diamonds, pearls, expense, lace, glamour.
« It’s the most important day of a woman’s life and why not have the most expensive dress in the world? »
London Fashion Week continues on Sunday with shows by Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label, Mary Katrantzou, Topshop Unique, Paul Smith and Jonathan Saunders.
