Martin Margiela
Spring-Summer 2012 – Margiela has found fame through his amorphous attire, and today was no exception as the larger than life clothing engulfed the models. Grey blazers were sleeveless and the collar was placed horizontal across the models neck. Protective plastic encased Persian print jackets; something normally found protecting suits inside the wardrobe. The back to front disposition was the development of the show as oversized white shirts and waistcoats looked inside out; one could see in cloth back of a zip rather than the zip itself. In explanation, Margiela had used the tailoring from a large size masculine wardrobe and adjusted it to a woman’s frame: mannish pinstriped trousers are a prime example of this . The huge cape like jackets took over the silhouette, as did the models hair which rendered them faceless. Long leathered pencil skirts draped to the floor and crinkled cardigans were iron impoverished. The show was as conceptual as ever.