PFW: rich prints and broderie anglaise at Valentino

At Valentino, the two Italian designers mine certain themes very well, and many of their key reference points were here Tuesday, including lots of Greco-Roman inspirations (from the flat gladiator sandals with straps running up to the knee, to the gathered waists on gowns and short dresses) and cool navy and burgundy tones. 

But there were plenty of fresh ideas added to the usual Wünderkammer (this time inspired by aristocratic travelers in 18th century). Tiered dresses with a sort of retro-Gypsy flounce appeared in Victorian florals in bold autumnal colors, and there was a Byronic decadence to the feather-embellished dresses and coats. 

There was also an injection of something more obviously summery with a series of full looks in broderie anglaise (some featuring sporty elasticated waistbands), all created by artisans in the south of Italy. These arrived with the pale pink and blue pastels, which introduced another theme: translucence. A mix of Empire-line and A-line dresses were also embellished with starfish, seahorses and underwater journeys, with coral prints taken from the brand’s archives.