Milan menswear: highlights from day 1

Dolce & Gabbana 

The Italian legends normally riff on their native Sicily when they get geographical with their collections, but this time around it was Spain’s turn (the Spanish ruled the island between 1516 and 1713). The bullfighting and flamenco references appeared in sharp black and red suiting (with added matador braiding) and a tiled print featuring a fearsome toro.

Costume National 

Ennio Capasa once again went for a rock ‘n’ roll and Americana-tinged collection, serving up minimalist spins on outfits worthy of Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger (no doubt the main influences on the dandy neckerchiefs). There was the odd bit of 70s flare to the otherwise tight suiting, with the collection’s mostly solid colors joined by monochrome stripes.

Ermenegildo Zegna 

The Zegna collection featured stunning elongated shapes, minimalist forms, and creative director Stefano Pilati’s signature belted details on suiting and outerwear. There were some fun sporty touches too (slip-on sneakers and striped motifs) and some serious luxury with quilted jackets and suede shirts.