Milan Men's Fashion Week: Roberto Cavalli
Cavalli is something like the king of opulence, so to hear that his latest collection was inspired by ‘the Baroque’ is not to be shocked. However, to see opening looks of clean black tailoring with Sport-Goth style ‘Empathy’ and ‘No Bounds’ slogans in white on black capslock letters was to be pleasantly surprised by the Florentine designer.
The point-toe ankle boots worn by the models were apparently inspired by American rock ‘n’ rollers but designed to deal with the ‘Tuscan Prairie’, and they came with slim pants in wool, denim or leather, and a slightly looser trouser silhouette in print. There was also some sharp plaid shirting in restrained tones, and a twisted yet unfussy version of a herringbone.
That said, there were plenty of the things that keep the designer’s fans coming back for more: from fur trim on collars, astrakhan coats and shearling jackets to intarsia knitwear featuring a rorschach rococo pattern.
The furs came as enrobing monochrome coats, or as the linings of sporty military parkas (complete with webbing pockets) and were worn with more denim, now either decadently distressed or sparkled with metallics. Cavalli’s traditional snakeskin touch came as a subtle black python trim on the tuxedo lapels.
