MFW: sleek retro at Gucci

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Frida Giannini opened her show with her models clasping leather bags (Gucci green and red straps over one shoulder), a clear statement of intent about what this brand stands for: traditional luxury for the international consumer. 

There was a naval influence to the first coats and trousers, but very soon the military rigor lost out to more decadent themes, from fur collars, to silk prints and lace dresses. Denim was another feature, with pieces including wide-leg jeans, drummer boy jackets, and laced-up shirtdresses, some with lace panels. There were also some Asian touches including crane and flower print cocktail dresses. 

Leather as usual was a strong point, with a number of stunning dresses and coatdresses in suede (to go with the many boots) and desirable matching python skirt and jacket (which matched some of the models’ sandals). The key accessory this season was the brand’s classic woven leather belt (normally more of a menswear staple) which appeared worn over the top of the model’s dresses, draped around tunics, and looped through trousers. 

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