British Fashion Council Fashion Awards’ review
In collaboration with the London College of Communication (LCC) – Journalism Program
Tyler Mitchell wins the BFC Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator
by Laila Eltarouty
Tyler Mitchell is a Brooklyn-based photographer and filmmaker and recipient of the 2024 Isabella Blow Award For Fashion Creator, he is receiving this accolade for his remarkable contribution to fashion, photography, and culture.
Renowned for his work with prominent brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, JW Anderson, Moncler, and magazines such as Vogue, ID, Dazed, and Vanity Fair just to name a few. The lensman is most famous for his magazine cover starring Beyonce for Vogue and made history by becoming the first black photographer to shoot the magazine’s cover in its then 126-year lifespan.
His collaboration with multiple respectable fashion houses has earned him a reputable name in the Fashion industry. In the realm of fashion photography, his artistic lens has allowed him to create less serious fashion photos and more reflective ones that complement the real world.
Most of his work portrays black subjects, aiming to create a vision of a black utopia through his photographs. He is driven ‘by dreams of paradise against the backdrop of history’. Mitchell has constructed a visual account of beauty, style, and utopia while exploring his dream-like world of black life.
He says: “I aim to visualize what a Black utopia looks like or could look like. People say utopia is never achievable, but I love photography’s possibility of allowing me to dream and make that world become very real.”
Mitchell’s work has won praise for its authentic and intimate portrayal of his subjects, often within pastoral landscapes and domestic settings that celebrate the mundane, while introducing new and influential narratives through his images.
He started his career as a filmmaker therefore explaining his eye for narrative. Since his descent into filmmaking, his work has expanded to fashion, documentary, portraiture, and art photography.
Born in Atlanta in 1995, Mitchell picked up the camera at an early age, documenting local youth culture, which involved shooting skateboarding videos of his friends. In 2017 he graduated with a BFA in Film & Television from New York University Tisch School of the Arts, where he studied photography.
Some of his early influences include Larry Clark and Ryan McGinley, in particular the freeing and alluring elements of their works. Mitchell’s art is centered on themes such as empowerment, play, and self-determination.
His work is held in various public and private collections including The Museum of Modern Art, New York; The National Portrait Gallery, London and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art. He has participated in solo and group exhibitions in notable galleries internationally such as Idyllic Space (on view in the High Museum of Art, Atlanta) and Wish This Was Real ( on view at C/O Berlin, Germany).
BFC Awards 2024: Tom Ford honoured with for ‘Outstanding Achievement’
By Alina Klass
Fashion designer, businessman and filmmaker: Tom Ford was honoured with the ‘Outstanding Achievement’ Award at the British Council Fashion (BFC) Awards.
He received the prestigious award on December 2nd at the Royal Albert Hall in London. He was honoured for his commitment and extraordinary influence on the fashion, film and beauty industries.
According to Ford, you should ‘have a vision and communicate it’
“This award is incredibly special to me, as I have spent a great deal of my life in London”, the American designer told the BFC. During his 35 years in the fashion world, he has focused on creativity and a love of beauty and style. But he also draws a parallel between fashion and film, which “both collaborative efforts”. “One has to have a vision and then to communicate that vision to a team of talented people” Ford continues.
The ‘Outstanding Achievement’ category is one of the most important and exclusive honours at the BFC Awards. Unlike other categories that recognise individual collections, trends or current achievements, this award recognises an entire career and long-term contribution to the fashion industry. Only designers who have achieved ground-breaking work over decades are considered for this award. After personalities such as Miuccia Prada, Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Anna Wintour and Manolo Blahnik, Tom Ford has now also been honoured with this accolade.
CEO of BFC Caroline Rush: ‘He’s an innovator and a fashion icon’
“For over three decades, his visionary work has consistently pushed the boundaries in every field he has played his hand in,” says Caroline Rush, CEO of the BFC. For Rush, Ford is a “true innovator and a fashion icon”. She refers to several of his successes: “From transforming Gucci into a fashion powerhouse and launching his incredibly successful eponymous brand while establishing the design studio in London, to becoming an award-winning filmmaker.”
From 2019 to 2022, Ford also served as Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and played a key role in promoting American fashion on a global scale.
Success at Gucci, disappointment at Yves Saint Laurent
Ford joined Gucci in 1990 as chief designer of women’s fashion before being appointed creative director in 1994. When he took up his position, the fashion house was in the middle of a crisis. However, under his leadership, he has completely transformed the brand and turned it into one of the largest and most profitable luxury brands. In 1999, together with Dommenico De Sole (CEO of Gucci) he founded the Gucci Group, which is today known as Kering.
After the group took over the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, Ford joined it as creative director, while continuing to have creative responsibility for Gucci. While he had great success at Gucci, his work at Yves Saint Laurent led to disappointment and conflict at some times. However, his Tom Ford brand, founded in 2005, had a “quick success”, according to the BFC. In addition to clothing, the brand offers exclusive fragrances, make-up and accessories, which are often considered a symbol of prestige.
Ford’s career as a filmmaker
In addition to his success in the fashion industry, he is an award-winning screenwriter, producer and film director. His first film “A Single Man” in 2009 was nominated for an Oscar. His second film “Nocturnal Animals” premiered in 2016 and won the Grand Jury Prize, a Golden Globe, nine BAFTA nominations and an Oscar nomination.
Many successes over several decades: You could say that Ford has more than earned the ‘Outstanding Achievement Award’. At the BFC Awards in previous years, he has already won in the categories ‘Best International Designer of the Year’ and ‘Red-Carpet Designer of the Year’.
BFC Awards 2024: Jonathan Anderson crowned as Designer of the Year
By Bella Tofighy
Winner: Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & LOEWE
2024 has truly been Jonathan Anderson’s year. It started with his quirky yet elegantly constructed January show in Paris and then he continued collaborating with Luca Guadagnino with his youthful yet athletic costume design for the movie ‘Challengers’ finishing the year with his costume design for the highly anticipated film ‘queer’.
Anderson continues to be the true example of multi-tasking in the industry. Continuing to create expertly designed and crafted collections for Loewe and JW Anderson while also producing innovative and exciting ad campaigns for the company all while designing and creating the whole costume design for Guadagnino movies, is there anything Jonathon Anderson cannot do? On accepting his award, he said: “I love fashion. It makes me get out of bed every morning,”
Also nominated were:
Chemena Kamali for Chloé
Chloe has officially entered its ‘cool girl’ era, with designer newly appointed creative director Chemena Kamali. This year has been a big year for Kamali, her debut her collection at Paris fashion week in January and then continuing to create standout looks for a variety of different red carpets, press tours and editorial shoots throughout the year. It is clear Kamali has come to the brand with a vision which is clear throughout everything she produces, but she will be able to bring something new next year differing from her usual boho whimsical style she has been accustomed to?
John Galliano for Maison Margiela
This year we witnessed one of the most groundbreaking runways we had seen for a long time. At the helm of the ship was renowned designer and innovator John Galliano who was able to create an expertly designed collection with incredible craftsmanship but also a spectacle of a show. The January Margiela show was reminiscent of shows in the past where not only the clothes were a spectacle but the runway itself. It is safe to say Galliano has had a hugely successful year creating a standout collection for Margiela and helping to launch the brand back into the front pages once more.
Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu
Miu Miu is truly the ‘it girl’ of the industry and continues to be a standout fashion house. With its classic yet fresh designs, Miuccia continues to surprise us on the runway from her jewelled micro-mini shorts to timeless leather goods. Miuccia is a woman many rely on to find the for the perfect red-carpet look, with many standouts this year including Sydney Sweeny’s whimsical Met Gala look and Kylie Jenners fun youthful but delicately fashioned look at the Business of Fashion Awards. Miuccia continues to show herself as a true force in the industry with two of the leading brands and continued looks appearing on the red carpet and the runway.
Pieter Mulier for Alaïa
Since taking over the house in 2021, Pieter Mulier has continued to create timeless, elevated classics. Presented at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, his most recent show was a noteworthy event.
His choice to present the collection in New York helped reinforce Mulier’s ‘obsession; with the idea of American beauty, simple, yet modern dress. It also held a sentimental meaning with New York where Mulier lived and helped to shape him and his designs to this day. This collection was all about elevated sportswear with a sense of freedom presented throughout the collection but still in the spirit and style of the house.
Rick Owens for Rick Owens
Known for his choice of dark pallets and dynamic silhouettes but with an emphasis on ready to wear pieces with his instantly recognisable aesthetic, Owens continues to create imaginable and fresh designs.
His most recent show in Paris was a personal standout being deeply moving event but a display of true talent and skill as a designer and creator. His 120 chosen models were a mixture of students and members of his own company in all shapes and sizes, piercings, and all. Not only has he had a standout year on the runway, but Owens continues to shine on the red carpets with Margot Robbie gracing the 2024 Breakthrough Prize Ceremony in a simple yet unique strapless black gown, completed with Owens signature bold accessories.
BFC Awards 2024: Simone Rocha wins Womenswear Designer of the Year
By Keelin Roe
The five nominees in this important category have progressively and “consistently made a global impact” with their designs by transforming the landscape of womenswear.
Winner: Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha
In Simone’s newest collection, she presents her designs focusing on hyper feminine attributes using corsets, faux fur and baby pink. Her concept of femininity was clearly proven as she also incorporated large hips design, making her silhouettes distinctive. The Irish designer, a graduate of Central Saint Martin’s, told Harper’s Bazaar earlier this year that she considers the three collections she created in the past year – two for her eponymous brand, and one as guest couturier for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture – to be a “trilogy.”
Also nominated:
Erdem Moralıoglu
Erdem showcased his 1950s floral and vibrant designs based on the iconic Duchess of Devonshire, Deborah, and her relationship with Chatsworth House. The true inspiration behind this collection was to celebrate Deborah’s dedication to restoring the property and what that may look like in retrospective. Erdem worked closely with people who knew her or had access to her archives. He entered fashion with his first women’s clothing collection in 2005. He has been celebrated for his “forensically researched narrative and a belief in the power of craftsmanship.”
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & LOEWE
The renowned Irish designer has been recognised for his playfulness by integrating feminine and masculine attributes throughout his designs. Jonathan’s spring 2025 collection has been noted as daring, vibrant and modern. The show at LOEWE was to objectively reflect a ‘radical reduction’, highlighting distinct designs of silhouettes and tailoring to aesthetic everyday wear. His intellectual approach to his collection is most widely known for his out of proportion silhouettes and textures.
Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo
Maximilian delves back to the 1920s in his newest collection to express, romantically, the ideals of freedom. His artistic concept of self-expression of “freedom is something which resonates with me, with my heritage, and with Ferragamo.” Maximilian’s elevated modern designs of the 1920s had been successful in a use of fabrics and colours that is simply show stopping. His luxurious collection has inspired many others, and he is hoping to see everyone wearing Ferragamo. Maximillian’s designs can be seen as playful and joyful and translate into the spirit of friendship.
Roksanda Ilinčić for Roksanda
Known for her distinctive silhouettes, Roksanda sculptured her very own collection dedicated to the autumn season. She has meticulously incorporated bold colours and interesting patterns into her choice of designs. Roksanda showstopper was a lavender purple dress, trailing down elegantly whom many have praised. As part of her artistic intention, Roksanda experimented with various fabrics. She says: “We were experimenting with lots of textures, lots of different weights of fabric, but the one that was most exciting was the woven tapestry fabric.”
BFC Awards 2024: Grace Bonner named as Menswear Designer of the Year
By Seren Rifat
The Fashion Awards says this key award recognises “a leading British menswear designer or business who has consistently made a global impact with their innovative and creative designs, shaping the burgeoning international menswear landscape”.
Winner: Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner’s nomination is not a surprise, as the South-London native stays committed to reimagining modern menswear through a gender-fluid and elegant lens. Wales Bonner’s vision lies at the intersection of menswear fashion and cultural dialogue, as she honours and is inspired by her own mixed-race background. Her collections explore ideas of heritage and black male identity by combining sophisticated and relaxed tailoring with Afro-Atlantic elements. Because of her emphasis on high-quality craftsmanship and cultural exchange narratives, her designs are wearable and thoughtful, making her stand out in the current menswear scene.
Also nominated were:
Craig Green for Craig Green
After graduating from Central Saint Martins and launching his eponymous label in 2012, Craig Green has established himself as a driving force in the fashion industry. His designs are a striking blend between functionality and artistic vision, which resonate with contemporary ideas around masculinity. Green’s runways are a showcase of his ability to transform traditional workwear pieces into creative outlets. By remaining consistent in these design principles, the London-born designer has created a brand that redefines the way we look at menswear.
Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson and Loewe
Jonathan Anderson has positioned himself as one of the most innovative menswear designers of today through his simultaneous work at JW Anderson and Loewe. Silhouettes and techniques are creative ground for Anderson, as he often pushes boundaries of menswear fashion with unexpected designs. His work at Loewe blends craftsmanship and artistry, meanwhile JW Anderson serves as ground for the designer to experiment with deconstructed pieces and knitting techniques. Both brands have maintained a level of relevance and commercial success under the direction of Jonathan Anderson, proving that he also possesses an unparalleled ability to connect to the public.
Kiko Kostadinov for Kiko Kostadinov
Kiko Kostadinov is a Bulgarian-born designer whose ability to redefine functionality in menswear fashion has gained him international recognition for his eponymous brand. His designs explore architectural silhouettes and reinterpretations of utilitarian menswear. His latest collections showcase his ability of bringing together simple and functional garments with bold colours, creating the impression of a futuristic look. With a new atelier in Paris and collaborations with brands such as Asics, Kostadinov is making his mark on menswear fashion with his visionary approach.
Kim Jones for Dior Men
Kim Jones’ nomination celebrates his work at Dior men, which combines historical and personal narratives. Under his direction, Dior menswear takes the shape of luxurious yet culturally relevant pieces. Jones is able to bring forth the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship, while adding modern streetwear touches to his designs. His tailoring is elevated by collaborations with contemporary artists and reinterpretations of archival pieces, bridging the gap between Dior’s menswear tradition and current day tastes.
Martine Rose for Martine Rose
Martine Rose’s eponymous label is a reimagination of menswear and cultural references, with boldly unconventional tailoring and proportions. Her designs challenge traditional aesthetics, offering a fresh perspective that merges nostalgia and modernity. Known for her ability to disrupt norms while also maintaining an approachable edge, Rose’s work captures the spirit of individuality and self-expression. Her designs have brought her recognition from masses and industry insiders alike.
BFC Awards 2024: Stephen Jones wins British Accessories Designer prize
By Hafsah Rahman
This award “recognises a leading accessory brand or business who has consistently made a global impact with their innovative and creative designs”.
Winner: Stephen Jones for Stephen Jones
This is most likely the most Avant Garde of the nominees, and rightfully so. Each hat is distinct and unlike another. Stephen Jones is a place where one would go to make show that even in a bird’s eye view of a crowded place, you will stick out and make an impression. Each collection, whilst small in size its intimate in its group. With each hat having its own personality and voice, Stephen Jones makes sure that each piece can stand proudly on its own.
Also nominated were:
Anna Jewsbury for Completedworks
The company has turned heads, not just through their strong beliefs of joining sustainability and fashion, but through the design of their jewellery as well. Jewsbury creates both classic and timeless pieces; they also put their own twist on their jewellery to allow creativity and individuality to show through. This is all paired with recycled and sustainable materials, such as recycled gold, to show the world that not can you be timeless and beautiful but also good for the environment.
Helen Kirkum for Helen Kirkum Studio is also a string contender with their work in accessories. Having been founded only 5 years ago, Helen Kirkum Studio has created a strong standing with the brand and their sneakers. Each collection is unique and unlike anything else in the market, with its distinct patterns and fabric collision, it catches eyes and draws attention. Helen Kirkum Studio has a strong foundation is sustainability and up-cycling from turning landfill doomed sneakers into bags, shoes and socks alike. The sheer innovation to create unique items from a single source is exactly why this company was nominated.
Jack Cannon and Joe Gelb for Hatton Labs
A company that strives to be different by creating a clear space for an arguably underrepresented space that is Men’s Jewellery. Created in Italy, but designed in London, Hatton Labs clearly encapsulates the boldness that company reflects. Each piece is a statement piece, meant to be shown off and given a time in the limelight. From the White Gold Championship ring to the Attacop Pendant, these pieces are meant to spark conversation to raise conversation about the future of Men’s Jewellery, which is exactly what Hatton’s Labs is.
Rosh Mahtani for Alighieri
Self-described as ‘Modern Heirlooms’ Alighieri clearly creates a link between heritage and living authentically. Each piece has a strong story and presence behind it which is clearly influenced by Rosh Mahtani upbringings. Each piece is almost singular in its portrayal, made special but the clear hand touched pieces and the anecdote that Rosh Mahtani creates to make the buyer feel more connected to their bold pieces. From ‘The Key to the Library’ necklace to ‘The Inkwell Chocker’ Rosh Mahtani is making that Alighieri has a place in the fashion industry.
BFC Awards 2024: Alex Consani crowned as Model of the Year
By Chiara Onofri
tunz tunz tunz.
tac tac tac.
pose pose pose.
Futuristic poem? Close, but not exactly.
It is the sound of the high heels of the six nominees to the Model of the Year (MOTY) award, presented annually by the British Fashion Council.
As well as the futurist poets of the early 1900s used to use their poems as a way to enhance the concept of innovation, the fashion designers of our time are “using” models to enhance their latest collections.
Like the futurist poets, models are dynamic, determinate and admirers of the beauty of technique, movement and innovation. Like their poems, models appear in the most renowned magazines of their time and, much like those poets, they embody strong and inspiring social messages.
This award recognises “the global impact of a model who, over the last 12 months, has dominated the industry, with an influence that transcends the catwalk.”
Winner: Alex Consani
Consani is the supreme “people’s princess” of our time, the first trans model to ever walk the Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Apart from being the face of the hottest advertising and editorials of the past months, the youngest of the nominees at 21 also doubles as one of the most transparent and vibrant Gen Z’s influencers of the moment. Reporting the backstage of her fashion shows and her model off-duty life, the American has conquered a special place inside LGBTQ+ community’s hearts, as well as everyone’s else.
Also nominated were:
Alva Claire
Ascendant star of the industry, thanks to her kind, yet powerful personality, she is bursting through the catwalks since her debut at the 2019 Fenty Savage Show in Brooklyn, New York. From that moment on, the leading English 32-year-old has oozed confidence and fashion sense from every pore.
Amelia Gray Hamlin
A star of campaigns, catwalks and editorials for a wide range of brands in the past couple years, Amelia Gray Hamlin is also an actress, television personality, social media influencer and entrepreneur and now confidently ‘catwalking’ through a new chapter of her life.
Anok Yai
The 26-year-old is the first model of South Sudanese descent ever and the second black supermodel to open a Prada show since 1995. She went from being “the kid in the corner who didn’t talk to anybody” as she told to Elle magazine last July, to be a hypnotizer for everyone who happens to glance in her direction.
Liu Wen
The queen of ‘first times’, Liu Wen, 36, is China’ first-ever supermodel, the first East Asian model to ever walk for Victoria’s Secret, the first Chinese woman to appear on the cover of American Vogue, and finally, the first Asian woman to makes it into the Forbes’ list of highest-paid supermodels.
Mona Tougaard
The second youngest nominee this year at 22, Tougaard is definitely in her ‘supermodel era’ and is unquestionably one of the busiest models of her generation. With a never-ending list of brands, she has collaborated with and a kind soul, she has nothing for which to envy the top models of the 90s.
BFC Awards 2024: Winners of New Establishment Menswear and Womenswear
By Alina Klass
New Establishment Menswear
The menswear award “recognises menswear designers who have created a new movement in British fashion and have a sustained impact on the industry globally.”
Winner: Priya Ahluwalia for Ahluwalia
Ahluwalia’s focus on sustainability and cultural identity has redefined modern menswear and made her a central figure in the industry. Her brand Ahluwalia combines recycled and unused materials with innovative designs inspired by her Indian-Nigerian heritage. In January 2024, she was featured on the cover of British Vogue, honouring her eco-social contribution.
Also nominated were:
Aaron Esh
Clothing that combines the rigour of the establishment with the rebellious spirit of youth culture and is made for a generation that feels somewhere in between: that’s what Aaron Esh stands for. The London-based designer brand is known for its avant-garde yet wearable approach to menswear. Combining tailored elegance with elements of streetwear, Esh redefines contemporary menswear. His creations have been praised for their innovative design and global relevance and have gained a loyal following among fashion-conscious customers.
Fontay Dumbuya Fra Labrum London
Labrum London combines West African traditions with British tailoring, creating collections that tell cultural stories. Elle describes his designs as “a love letter to African immigrants”. As a result, he has made a strong name for himself in contemporary menswear. For his work, Dumbuya has even received the Queen Elizabeth Award from King Charles himself for British design. “It’s a privilege to be in the company of such talented designers,” the designer writes on his Instagram account.
Nicholas Daley
Already nominated last year, the designer integrates his multicultural heritage, Scottish and Jamaican, into his menswear collections. Daley’s commitment to cultural authenticity and craftsmanship has earned him international respect and set him apart in the menswear market. In 2022, Nicholas won the BFC x GQ Designer Fashion Fund. In the same year, he became a finalist in the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and was heralded as a true reflection of outstanding talent in the UK.
Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt for Stefan Cooke
Combining creativity and wearability, the duo’s collections are making waves on red carpets and in global editorials. Their designs reinterpret classic menswear basics with playful, avant-garde accents. They are known for their technical craftsmanship and innovative fabrics. Their ability to combine experimental techniques with wearable designs has made Stefan Cooke a standout brand in contemporary menswear.
New Establishment Womenswear
“Designers in this category are chosen “for their impressive showcasing of their collections, business growth, their prevalence on the red carpet and the international headlines driven by their collection.”
Winner: Marco Capaldo for 16Arlington:
The brand made its official debut at London Fashion Week in 2020 and has since regularly presented its collections on this prestigious stage. Marko’s talent and the rise of 16 Arlington were also evident in awards such as the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2023. The brand quickly attracted the attention of the industry, including celebrities such as Kendall Jenner and Alexa Chung.
Also nominated were:
Dilara Findikoglu
Her designs are a red-carpet favourite for celebrities looking for eye-catching, bold looks – because in the world of the Turkish-British designer, less is never more. Findikoglu is an influential voice when it comes to bringing together subcultural elements and connecting them with important and topical social commentaries on feminism, religion and politics. Her collections are often inspired by Gothic and historical references, infused with a punk aesthetic – which is why her perspective on luxury fashion has been much discussed.
Jawara Alleyne
“Thank you to the British streets for giving me the nerve to create unapologetically and to Islands for giving me a value system that goes beyond the self,” the designer writes on his Instagram account. Originally from Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, Jawara Alleyne’s work explores themes of identity, gender, and community. His collections combine Caribbean influences with experimental silhouettes, with a focus on drapery and deconstruction. In addition to Rihanna, who is often seen in his designs, celebrities such as Tems, Jorja Smith and Kelela have also worn them.
Laura and Deanna Fanning for Kiko Kostadinov
Starting out as a menswear brand, the Fanning sisters have brought a breath of fresh air to the brand with their unique vision, making it a leading player in experimental women’s fashion. They focus on conceptual designs with an emphasis on asymmetry, texture and innovative cutting. The designs have already been spotted in London on personalities such as Mira Al-Momani and Dua Lipa.
Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena for Chopova Lowena:
Recycled materials, bold prints and traditional techniques – the collections aim to create a distinctive aesthetic. Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena are known for the fusion of Bulgarian traditions with British craftsmanship. Their commitment to sustainability and craftsmanship combined with their unique style makes them pioneers in womenswear.
