A Fistful of Dollars (1964)

“Spaghetti Westerns” first made their appearance in Italian cinemas in the 1960s and quickly became a successful alternative to American cowboy movies. A Fistful of Dollars, directed by Sergio Leone, remains one of the most influential films of all time. Spaghetti westerns and their innovative cinematic style redefined the Western genre, but cinema is not the only field influenced by this award-winning film.

A crucial but often undervalued role in the creation of this film was played by the costume designer Carla D.B. De Palma. Her work was able to give the right visual tone to the movie and overall, also influenced fashion culture. The costumes for Clint Eastwood’s enigmatic lead character, known as ‘The Man With No Name,’ and particularly his famous poncho, contribute to the creation of this rugged antihero, and its defined but simple look became a considerable influence in Western and boho fashion still present in modern day.

The use of leather and cowboy boots with an overall layered and rough look has been replicated and presented in fashion many times throughout the years. The pieces of designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Rick Owens, and Louis Vuitton show how high fashion adopted utilitarian and rugged elements to create new pieces of clothing and collections.

A notable example of this specific look is represented by the YSL SS 2011 Collection, curated by the stylist Hedi Slimane. At the time, he created a fresh, bold look that included cowboy and rock ’n’ roll aesthetics. He adopted elements inspired by Western culture, such as fringe leather and suede jackets, cowboy boots, bandana prints, and wide hats resembling the classic Stetson.

All of these elements contributed to the creation of a rebellious look that often reappears in fashion culture and on the runway. The western look made a strong comeback this year, as can be seen from the Louis Vuitton autumn-winter 2024 runway, where models were wearing denim, fringed, flowered, and leather ensembles with chunky leather belts, boots, and cowboy-like hats directly representing the iconic looks rooted in A Fistful of Dollars.

As a result, Spanish clothing brand Zara, originally founded by Amancio Ortega and Rosalía Mera, also adopted this look in their autumn 2024 line, which sees leather belts, big brown leather purses, wide hats, ponchos, draped cloths, and rugged. It is easy to say that A Fistful of Dollars, as one of the most well-known Western movies, has had a vast and overlooked influence in various aspects, including fashion, where its style is still being adapted more than 60 years after its first appearance in cinemas.

By Estela Pretto, student on the BA Journalism course at London College of Communication