Haider Ackermann Appointed Creative Director at Berluti
Haider Ackermann Appointed Creative Director at Berluti
Yesterday the news broke that the menswear brand Berluti has appointed Haider Ackermann as the brand’s creative director, due to present his first show for the house for Autumn/Winter 2017. A previous student at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Ackermann launched his successful eponymous label in 2003 after building his portfolio working for John Galliano, Bernhard Willhelm, and more. Alessandro Sartori, the previous creative director at Berluti, left this position in February to return to Ermenegildo Zegna, where he took the position of artistic director, and will also present his first creations for the brand for Autumn/Winter 2017.
Berluti is reportedly looking to expand their casual, relaxed looks, a wise move at a time when the luxury market has slowed so significantly around the world. In light of these market changes, Ackermann’s hire makes perfect sense. “We are not a sartorial brand,” said Antoine Arnault, the chief executive officer of Berluti, in a statement. “If you go to our stores, yes we do have high-end bespoke. But we are a luxury men’s wear brand where sartorial meets casual. And when you see our product mix, a mix of both makes it interesting.”
While Ackermann is known for his impeccably tailored pieces and creative draping, a glance through his collections does not leave one immediately concerned with the tailoring, nor feeling particularly stuffy. Luxuriously casual, his collections offer a view of disheveled yet unmistakable quality, a punk take on classically refined pieces and fabrics for both men and womenswear. A sense of androgyny runs through each collection as well, helped along by the presence of female models in the menswear shows, and the general use of a menswear theme throughout both collections.
Berluti, on the other hand, presents a significantly preppier vision, a contemporary take on classic pieces, and a more rigid, refined presence permeates the collections. Combined with Ackermann’s style, one expects that the coming seasons will show a more casual take on Berluti’s generally preppy, traditional looks. “I am sure that his vision will bring a unique opportunity to Berluti,” Arnault remarked in a statement announcing the new hire.
“It just felt right,” Ackermann said regarding his appointment at Berluti. “Like having a new lover. Men’s is a very interesting world nowadays because the customer wants more of an individual identity. But he also wants timeless, so you are always balancing on that line.” The designer further commented that taking a position at a menswear company was in part to rebel against expectations, considering his history of designing womenswear. “Everyone was expecting me to do women’s wear, so I wanted to do something else. I have another story to tell.”
Needless to say, this new story is eagerly awaited by Berluti and Ackermann fans alike.
Haider Ackermann Appointed Creative Director at Berluti
