Paris menswear: highlights from Raf Simons, Y/Project, Julien David

Young Belgian designer Glenn Martens focused on designing for his contemporaries, who have “raved into adulthood,” and this was both a playful and more grown-up collection at the same time. His usual sport and streetwear-influenced pieces appeared with sheer cycling tops and reflective treated finishes, while new eveningwear options included linen suiting and faux-drapé digital print silks.

David showed off the fruits of his debut collaboration with Australian surfwear brand Quiksilver which included tuxedo-print wetsuits and vibrant board shorts. Elsewhere the collection was classic, mixing skate shoes, slouchy tailoring, colorful knitwear, tartan coats and jackets, and baseball caps. 

Simons’ desire for a bit of fashion democracy saw an all-standing crowd assembled in the mid-refurbishment shell of a space off Place Vendome, amongst peeling original features and lighting rigs. ‘Raf-ficionados’ were treated to a show bathed in red and green light with wispy-haired models rocking Japanese-print panel coats, mesh and knit tank tops, light-up sneakers, pool slides, and custom-made Stan Smiths.

Christophe Lemaire

The designer, best-known for his womenswear role at Hermès, is a believer in evolution, not revolution when it comes to his own label. Although Lemaire is still working his tone-on-tone restrained palette, trademark boxy suiting and functional pockets, there were some new sportier influences. The tailoring featured traditional lapelled pieces alongside kimono-style jackets.