Paris menswear shows: opening day highlights

Y/Project 

Glenn Martens’s debut at Y/Project saw the young Belgian talent pull together a sombre yet refined line in a mix of blacks and deep blues. Denim workwear stood out with cool metallic clip fastenings, and luxe touches were added by the various leathers which included kangaroo, horse and lamb. The men’s silhouette mixed drapey looks with tighter cuts, while the brand’s debut women’s pieces also showed some graceful promise. 

#dark #leather #flowing

Carven 

A billiard table set welcomed Guillaume Henry’s models who arrived in workwear, sketchy school exercise book scribble prints, double-breasted outerwear, and slim-cut suits worn with collarless shirts. This collection also toned down the palette for fall, mixing solid beige, black, white, dark blue and burgundy with some highly desirable tartan and check patterns. 

#tartan #double-breasted #dark 

Walter Van Beirendonck 

This one had it all: Wermacht helmets in felt created by famed milliner Stephen Jones, slogans and geometric designs shaved into army buzzcut-short hair by Charlie Le Mindu, deconstructed felted sports coats in club colors, and a crocodile-teeth motif. These days throwing models out onto the runway in Native American headdresses is normally a PR disaster (see Victoria’s Secret), but the ‘Stop Racism’ slogan spray-painted on top was a clever kick. 

#cartoon crocodile #army #felt